Winter Iceland is not just the summer version of the country covered in snow. It feels like a completely different place.
Days become shorter, the mountains turn white, waterfalls freeze around the edges, black beaches look even more dramatic, and roads disappear into endless winter landscapes. The sun stays low over the horizon, creating the soft Arctic light that photographers can usually wait hours for. And when darkness falls, one question keeps spinning in the back of your mind: will we see the Northern Lights tonight?
That is why winter is one of my favourite times to travel in Iceland.
Over eight days we will cross a huge part of the country by car: from Reykjavík and the Golden Circle along the wild South Coast to Vatnajökull and the glacier lagoons, then on through the remote east and all the way to North Iceland.
This is not a trip where we see three famous waterfalls and return to Reykjavík every evening. It is a true winter road trip across Iceland.
As we move through the country we change accommodation, which lets us go much deeper into Iceland and wake up among completely new landscapes almost every morning. One day it might be black beaches and waterfalls, the next a glacier, then frozen fjords, volcanic landscapes or snowy mountains somewhere in the north.
And because this is Iceland in December, the weather will always be part of our adventure. Snow can start unexpectedly, the wind can completely change conditions within an hour, and a road that looked perfectly fine in the morning can be something else entirely by the afternoon. That is why our programme is carefully planned, but never tied to the plan so tightly that we ignore real conditions.
We travel with Iceland, not against it.
If conditions change, we change the plan. If the sky suddenly clears and the aurora forecast looks promising, we may get back in the cars in the evening and go looking for it. If we find an incredible place along the way, we stop. And if Iceland decides we are definitely not driving a certain road today, we always have another idea.
That flexibility is not a compromise. It is part of a proper winter trip to Iceland.
Frozen waterfalls, geothermal landscapes, black volcanic beaches, enormous glaciers and ice caves are waiting for us. We will walk by the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, drive through the fjords of East Iceland, see the volcanic landscapes of the north and spend our evenings looking at the sky whenever conditions give us a chance to see the aurora.
But as on every VABO Trips journey, some of the best moments will most likely happen somewhere between the points written in the programme. A random road freshly covered in snow. A small hot spring in the middle of nowhere. Icelandic horses beside the road. Coffee while a snowstorm passes outside. A completely unexpected sunset. Or the whole team running out of the house in the middle of the night because someone shouted that the Northern Lights have appeared.
Iceland leaves you very little control.
And that is probably exactly why travelling here is so addictive.